Being a Trainer/Handler (A beginners guide) –
written by Wolf_puppy – Please check out more of his great articles about Pet/Puppy by visiting his profile at: https://fetlife.com/users/25820
After posting my guide to be a puppy the first suggestion I got was a guide for trainers/handlers. So here is my first attempt at it. Please give it a read through and make suggestions on any information that should be added or changed!
I would highly suggest for both Trainer/Handler to read this guide as well as my Being a puppy guide
Being a Trainer
Being a good trainer may actually be harder to do then being a good pup. Being a pup is a headspace a submissive can get into. Being a trainer requires you to help the pup into the headspace and have the skill and knowledge to keep the pup in the headspace for as long as the trainer or pup wants.
Starting out:
When starting out as a trainer for a pup the first thing to do is to go over what they like and what they know. This will give you a good starting block of what you can do with your pup right away.
First thing is to help your pup get into their head space. It will defiantly help to call them pup, puppy, puppy dog, or their pup name if they have one. Help the pup get dressed appropriately for their position. Help get on knee pads and mitts if needed. The pup will most likely know what they confortable wearing while they are a pup. I would even go as far to suggest that as a trainer you dress the pup, since real pup would not be able to dress themselves.
Once the puppy is in their head space you should help keep that head space as much as possible. This can be done by petting them, calling them puppy, and generally treating them like a dog. Make sure to vary where you pet and how hard, after petting the same area for long periods of time it will become raw and sensitive.
Next is to start developing a standard of knowledge for both the trainer and pup so that any commands issued can be carried out. Start with basic and simple commands. I would suggest to start with one or two simple command and increase the number as time goes on. If you or your pup does not already have a standard for these positions I will explain mine as best I can. Starting with Positional commands (altering the position the pup is currently taking with their body)
Positional Commands
Sit:
pup is kneeling with hands close to the knees so that the pup’s back is more vertical. Back is arched, no slouching! (unless your pup has short arms).
Sit pretty: (aka: presentation or formal)
pup on all fours, hands farther from the knees to make the shape of a table. Head high and back arched. This position is usually for inspection and just plain looking good as a pup. Be proud!
Lay down:
The puppy puts their stomach to the floor. Where the arms and legs end up is really a personal choice for the Trainer to decide. Either make a standard for the arms and legs or just let the pup flop around.
Beg:
In the Sit position with both hands up. Also usually follows with a higher pitched whining noise. Used to make the pup beg for pets, foot, the bathroom, or anything you like.
NOTE:
In all of these positions the pups hands are in fists with knuckles to the floor. This is for the safety of the pups fingers. It is ok for them to rest on their wrist bones, but make sure they don’t make a habit out of it. Also note at no point should the pup’s elbows be extended all the way. It is best to always keep a slight bend in the elbows. This is so if someone hits the pups elbow there is some room for it to move back and resist. If it is fully extended it will be harder for the pup to resist any force against the elbow and could cause serious damage.
Now we will move onto Movement related commands (altering how a pup is moving and acting)
Movement Commands
Stay:
The puppy has to stay in their current position until the handler tells the puppy to come to him. Best used while the puppy is in the Sit command.
Come:
Used in conjunction with Stay. This lets the pup come to you after they have been told to Stay.
Heel:
To calm the pup down or stop the pup from doing something you don’t want them doing. Be sure to add in a tap to the head or rear for added effect.
Roll over:
To make the pup roll across the floor once or multiple times. Used after the Positional command Lay Down.
Fetch:
Used to make the pup fetch you something. Usually is used after a ball/toy is thrown or to make the pup retrieve something specific for you.
NOTE:
It may be in the trainer’s interest to teach the puppy any new commands while they are a puppy. You may have to get down and show them the position or action while giving the command. But it creates more of a bond between trainer and pup.
Don’t be afraid to make your own commands for your pup depending on your needs! Just be sure you teach the pup the position or action with the command.
Punishment and rewards:
All things you tell your pup to do should be rewarded or punished depending on how well they complete their task. If the pup listens well and does as told the pup should be rewarded with pets, scratches, rubs, and treats. If the pup does not listen and disobeys it can be punished. Withholding attention to the pup or a good slap on the rear/head will suffice. In my opinion the worst you can do to a pup is refuse to pay attention to them and not pet them, soon after this treatment you are bound to see a more obedient pup.
Some good treats are incentive to be good. Buy the pups favourite snack, use chewy gummies, or clodhoppers (mMmmm…clodhoppers)
Toys:
Every pup needs toys to play with. The best toys are plastic ones that have a lot of give to them. The pup may also like the ones that squeak when you bite into them. Make sure not to get any hard plastic ones, it will be hard on the pups teeth to play with them for long periods of time.
I would also suggest not to get many cloth toys. Saliva and wetness can accumulate in them which will increase the likeliness of bacteria. If you do decide you want a cloth toy for your pup, make sure its washable.
Rope toys are also good, especially for tug of war. Just make sure your pup has healthy teeth to be able to pull back.
Cages:
A cage can be a helpful addition to pup play. They can be used to as punishment and to sleep in. They don’t come cheap and they don’t come big enough to fit the human body comfortably for long periods of time. If plan on locking up your pup for the night it would be suggested to buy an extra big cage or build one so that they have room to stretch out.
Using the Toilet and Bathing:
Some pups will want to get out of pup mode to go to the bathroom. But if you want your pup to be able to enjoy their head space longer, it will be in your best interest to teach them how to use the bathroom while a pup. The easiest to do is urinate.
For a male pup, as long as the toilet seat is up, they should be able to stand beside it, lift a leg, and flop their thing in. This could be similar for female pups, but I would need conformation on it working. If your pup has a butt plug tail, it may have to be removed to urinate. I know I have trouble doing urinating with a butt plug tail in.
Number 2 can be done in the shower. You will most likely have to help your pup get cleaned up afterwords. Of course both of these can be done outside, but only if you have the privacy to do so.
Also pups loved to be bathed, this will require a tub and for the pup to have no gear on. On a warm day with you could also take the pup out back and hose them down. Although that might be more entertaining then actually useful.
Naming your pup:
After some time with a puppy you may want to consider giving them a name. This is a name you call them when they are a pup. It should reflect their personality as a pup and as a person. You do not need to name your pup, but it is encouraged to deeper the connection between you and the pup. If you are having trouble naming your pup, Google search a list of names for dogs.
Collaring your pup:
Should go along with naming your pup. Instead of just telling them their pup name you have chosen. Go out and buy a leather collar from the pet store, get their name engraved on a tag. Then go slap it on them next time they are a pup. It can also mean you have decided to own them as a pup and take the pup on as a permanent pet.
After care
After care is very important to having a healthy and safe pup. First check the pup’s knuckles, hands, and knees. Take the pup’s hands and help stretch out the fingers,
checking the hand and knuckles for any cuts or bruises. Next move onto the knees checking for the same thing. Get the pup some water and a nice fuzzy blanket. Give them a cuddle and be sure to tell them they are a good puppy.
Thanks for reading =D